Yarn count systems: Ne, Nm, Tex, Denier

In a real company

Yarn sourcing, spinning / knitting coordinator, fabric developer

Cotton is sold in Ne (30s, 40s), filament in denier, technical specs in Tex. You must convert between them to compare offers and build fabric specs.

Key ideas

• Ne and Nm are indirect: a higher number = finer yarn.
• Tex and Denier are direct: a higher number = coarser yarn.
• Tex = 590.5 ÷ Ne = 1000 ÷ Nm = Denier ÷ 9.

Formula

Tex

= 590.5 ÷ Ne

Nm

= Ne × 1.6934

Denier

= Tex × 9

Worked example

A buyer specifies 30s Ne cotton. The knitter asks for Tex and the polyester supplier for denier.

1. 1Tex = 590.5 ÷ 30 = 19.68
2. 2Nm = 30 × 1.6934 = 50.80
3. 3Denier = 19.68 × 9 = 177.2

✅ 30s Ne = 19.68 Tex = 50.8 Nm = 177 denier.

Common mistakes

• Thinking 40s is thicker than 30s — in Ne it is finer.
• Mixing Ne (cotton) with Nm (worsted).
• Rounding Tex too early in calculations.

Quick quiz

Answer 2 of 3 correctly to complete the lesson.

1. 1. Which is finer?

   20s Ne40s NeSameCan't tell

2. 2. 20 Tex in denier?

   1802.229.5200

3. 3. Tex of 59.05 Ne?

   10100351